ECONOMY

Galvin brothers head into Kimpton Fitzroy hotel with new bar and grill


T

wo long-serving stalwarts of London dining are set to continue their legacy with a new venture inside Bloomsbury’s opulent Kimpton Fitzroy hotel.

The Galvin brothers – who are best known for their French-inflected cooking at the likes of the Michelin-starredLa Chapelle in Spitalfields – are to open a modern British style of place inside the hotel, as they take over from Neptune, the restaurant from Margaret Crow and Brett Redman that closed during the pandemic.

The new project, named simply the Galvin Bar and Grill, will open later this month on September 27, with its entrance separate from the hotel itself. Brothers Chris and Jeff have a long history with hotel restaurants, currently operating Galvin at Windows on the top floor of the Hilton on Park Lane and having worked, variously, at the Ritz, the Lanesborough and the Savoy.

While “modern British” is often a vague indicator of what a place will offer, the brothers say the new bar and grill will have a heavy focus on plant-based dishes, and is being designed to reflect their ideal of British values, meaning it will be “ethical, generous, open and culturally diverse”.

With room for 100 guests at a time, the dining room is a substantial one; so too it is a beautiful one, with many of the original details from architect Charles Fitzroy Doll remaining, though the room is having a complete refit from its Neptune days. Doll designed the room in 1898 and was pleased enough with it that his dining room aboard the Titantic is said to have been virtually identical.

Top trio: Chris and Jeff Galvin, left and right respectively, with Adam Gray, centre

/ Press handout

Heading the kitchen will be the chef Adam Gray, who’s best known for maintaining a star for almost a decade at Rhodes Twenty Four at Tower 42, the now-closed but once-popular city spot from the late Gary Rhodes. Gray’s other ventures include time as head chef for Skylon, the D&D restaurant on the Southbank, and for his part in helping set up the Ethical Butcher. This interest is central to the Galvin’s grill, where the menu, they say, is built entirely around ethically-sourced produce.

Information on exact suppliers is at this stage limited, though most produce will be from the UK, as are a number of the wines. The menu, however, has a little more shape to it, with dishes set to include a glazed Dorset lobster omelette to start, followed by the likes of a turbot T-bone in a butter sauce, plated up with a fennel and a potato terrine, herb butter sauce, as well as grain-fed chicken from Yorkshire done with smoked garlic, girolles and hasselback potatoes. As befits a grill, there will be the expected choice of steaks, and seafood from the morning’s boats. Vegans, meanwhile, will get the likes of a tartare made of tomatoes and grilled sweet peppers, as well as a roast pumpkin dish with sage and Berkswell cheese. The Galvins’ signature tarte tatin will be among the puddings.

Bird’s the word: the restaurant is set to serve comforting classics

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Chris Galvin told the Standard of the opening: “We are delighted to be opening in such a beautiful room in such a historic setting, that has its own entrance on Guilford street.

“Each dish on the menu has a story of how it is sourced, it has been exciting to spend so much time discovering so many more British ingredients, and marvellous to be able to find English wines to match. Ethical and sustainable eating is very important to us and 50 per cent of diners at Galvin La Chapelle choose a plant-based or vegetarian tasting menu, so we have enjoyed working with Adam to ensure this is reflected in the menu at Bar and Grill.

“The dishes will be familiar and not so familiar classics, cooked with a high degree of skill and served simply.

“After such a tough year for everyone it’s been a joy to create something new for London’s returning restaurant goers.”

Gray added: “To understand fully where and how your ingredients are grown and sourced , what impact they have on our environment is immensely important to the Galvin team. We are very proud to use ethically sourced ingredients wherever possible which in turn adds to the quality of flavour in every dish we create. Simplicity is everything and we let the ingredients shine through with minimal fuss.”

The Galvin Bar and Grill will open on September 27 at the Kimpton Fitzroy Hotel, Guilford Street, WC1. For more information, visit galvinrestaurants.com

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